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In Bruges

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I hate to disappoint, but I’m not going to discuss the Colin Farrell movie much at all in this post. Especially since I’ve still never seen it. But a random guy at a bar convinced me that Bruges was a place I needed to go if I ever made it to Belgium (these types of conversations happen to me a lot). Then add in my family ties to Flanders and a trip where I’ll already be in the area, and you have yourself a: “what the hell? Bruges it is.”

In our plan, however, Bruges was simply a day trip/layover type of destination in between two separate stays in Belgium; Brussels and Ghent.

We had just come from a horrible experience in Brussels. To put it lightly, the city was generally unsettling. My distaste for Brussels is so genuine that when people ask “what was your least favorite place you visited?” it’s on my tongue before they can even get the question out. And that was the unofficial capitol of Europe! So what expectations did I have for Bruges; the medieval town in Belgium that a guy in a bar told me was worth seeing? Little to none.

Nevertheless, we went under the impression that we could always catch an earlier train to Ghent if we so desired. We were staying there for two nights, after all, and were mainly doing this Bruges day-trip to eat up some time.

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It’s safe to say I wouldn’t be writing this had we caught an “earlier train for Ghent.”

Considering how tiny the city of Bruges is, we walked 9 miles during that day-trip; on cobbled streets, each carrying 40 lb backpacks, without a map, itinerary or much to go on at all.

Maybe it was the 13th and 14th century castles, drawbridges, and picturesque canals that made us fall in love. Maybe it was stumbling upon windmills, or a high school band’s live performance of Pirates of the Caribbean, or doing so much walking (in the cold) that we actually felt warm. Or maybe it had to do with spending only the day there, and ­­­trying our best to make the most of it. Whatever it was, Bruges led us to explore again. It took us back in time. It did to us what’s supposed to happen when you travel, and sometimes, many times, does not.

Bruges was quiet and beautiful and fascinating, and at the same time bustling with people and culture. And only being there for the day did require us to wear our backpacks the whole time, and therefore take it slow. It allowed us to notice all the small details and take in the idiosyncrasies easily missed when only trying to hit everything on TripAdvisor’s “Must-See in ___”. It let us forget about where we had come from, where we were going next, and simply enjoy where we were and who we were there with.

I’m not going to tell you that you need to visit Bruges; though I think it’s worth it and you’ll most likely love it. What I’m telling you is to leave room for these types of days in your planning. Leave room for the places in between, where you are forced to wear your backpack and slow down. Which in turn forces you to see all the details, hear the music, smell the tulips, and discover, wander, and explore.

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Blog, Planning

HOW

My grandfather is one of my favorite people to discuss our trip with. To describe him as a man of habit and simplicity is an understatement. The thought of stepping out of his routine at all is difficult enough; let alone grasping our decision to drop everything and backpack around the world.

“When we got married, we went to New York. New York! That was a big deal for us– and you’re going all over the world! It’s unthinkable!”

The entire idea of our trip [and the process of planning it] to him was unthinkable. Before we left, he wanted to know how we were accomplishing all of this. “How are you getting to these places? How do you know where to go or where to stay? How can you possibly plan it all? *eyes closed, arms out* How?” 

I always kind of laughed to myself at the question of ‘how?’ The Internet, of course! But it’s not a bad question at all, nor should I laugh. In retrospect, planning and executing it all is a LOT. The process of planning a trip across 3 continents and 10 weeks can and should make a person ask “how?” Even myself.

Though it may be a lot of work, it is quite simple. My best advice is to start with the “big picture.” Use Pinterest, travel blogs, travel books, Instagram, etc. Look at a map and think about everywhere you’ve ever wanted to be. Break it down by city or by general region, and work your way inward. Read reviews. Lots and lots of reviews. And utilize your friends and family’s past experiences and suggestions- these will help the most!

Once you decide where you want to go, you’re then able to start connecting the dots. There are countless “XX days in Europe” travel itineraries that you can follow and/or modify to fit your preferences. Having a rail pass makes this exponentially easier. Something to take into consideration for your route, however, is when you will be travelling. Compare the time(s) you’re able to go with reviews of when to go for the areas you’re planning to visit. It helps to consider the average temperatures and general weather conditions for all of this, as well.

For example; we were planning a stretch of time between mid-October and Christmas, and wanted to visit Europe, Australia, Singapore, and Hawaii. Where do we go first?  What route makes the most sense? Our deciding factor for us was the weather, which led us to begin in the UK and then migrate south as the temperatures dropped– right before winter hit the majority of the EU. It was still colder than we would have liked in much of Germany, Prague, and Vienna, but the time of year did provide for less crowds, some lower prices, and in many cases a better experience.

This trend continued for us as we travelled through Asia and Australia. At that point in December, we were experiencing the intensity of Summer down under. It was HOT. In Cairns, unbearably hot. So hot that I would never recommend going there at the time that we did, but we still accomplished everything we wanted to and more, and with lower prices.

If you are wondering where to start with planning, I’d say first and foremost, getting your route down is key. Again—always leaving room for adjustments. It helps to be flexible when it comes to backpacking, as budgets and availability often are not.

Once the rough draft of your itinerary is created, researching the big-ticket items, like flights or rail passes, is next. You’re going to spend 1/3 or more of your budget on these, and the further in advance they are purchased, the better off you are with your selection (both available times and varying prices). Use a mix of travel sites– Kayak, fly.com, Travelzoo — but also compare to airlines’ official sites as sometimes they are more reliable. Truthfully, I spent days searching every combination of ways to get from point A to point B to point Z.  An entire post on searching flights is in the works, but for now just remember to use private browsing and open a new page every time you start a search.  

Once these larger scale factors are pinpointed, you can begin working inward and actually planning the details. Based on what you want to see or do in each place and how much money you have to spend, you can decide on the amount of time you’ll need [and are able] to stay in each city.  Hence, your itinerary is planning itself.

So yes– it can sound like a lot of work and from the surface can be intimidating and overwhelming.  To my grandfather it absolutely was and still is. But the “how” is a labor of love, and genuinely the most important part of making your dream of travel possible. With every search you complete and conversation you have with another seasoned traveller, you’re working toward a well-devised and on-budget plan (with room for adjustments of course), and igniting the anticipation that you are surely already feeling.  In a way, the “how” is the real start to your adventure.  You are making the most of your time, money, and journey before you even get to the airport– and that is exhilarating, second only to the trip itself.

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Eurail Forever

As much as I love the excitement of taking off on the runway or having my feet up on the dashboard, there is a simpler and more authentic love that I have for train travel that can’t be denied. By being whisked through the countryside, you get an opportunity that you would otherwise not have by jumping from one city to another via plane, or worrying about directions or navigating the other side of the road in a [crappy, ultra-economy sized] rental car.

For Europe, train travel is undeniably the way to go. Backpackers rave about the ease and affordability of a Eurail pass for good reason. Rail stations are accessible from city centers, there is almost always a convenient way to the destination you’re trying to reach, and there is little to no time spent going through customs or security like you would in an airport. Purchasing a Global Eurail Pass was an easy decision for us, but here are some things to think about before deciding whether or not it is right for you:

  1. Living in the US, you are required to purchase your pass in advance with enough time to have it mailed to you before your departure— standard shipping will get it to you in less than 9 days.
  2. Activating your pass means starting your pass. So if yours is “continuous,” that means the clock starts ticking at activation. This process takes place at a designated ticket booth before you step foot on your first train. It is quick and easy, but you never know how long the line will be to get to that attendant— so arrive early to be safe.
  3. Reservations are still required for many common trips, and this is in addition to what you’ve already spent for your pass *sigh.* Even with trying to avoid these by making stops or taking slower, less direct trains as much as possible, we still accumulated fees around $200. However, reservations will guarantee you a designated seat, and in most cases will cater to your selected preferences; such as a seat with table, with outlets, or facing the direction you choose.
  4. Eurail has recently upped the Youth Pass discount to age 27, which grants eligible travellers savings upwards of 20% off the normal ticket price. But good news- if you do not qualify for the youth pass, but are travelling with a partner or group, you can save 15% if you purchase together and plan to be together at all times throughout your journey.

To expand on #4, our travel took place when we were 26, but before the “youth” age was adjusted from 25 to 27– URGH! — which required us to purchase an Adult (first-class only) Pass.  And though I see the irony in complaining about first-class, for the most part, the upgrade made little to no difference in our travel. Sometimes these cars had nicer seats or offered snacks and/or water for guests, but many of the smaller, local trains did not even have a first-class car. Regardless, none of the first-class extras were necessary for a backpacker, and we looked very misplaced among the businessmen and upper crust of the EU. Thus, if you are able to get the lower priced, second-class pass– do it. There are items worth splurging on while abroad, but this is not one of them.

Lastly, of all the numbers I’ve run and comparisons I’ve completed, I’ve yet to analyze the cost savings of an unlimited pass versus buying individual train tickets. But with the ease of an unlimited pass, even if there were a slight price difference, I don’t think we would have changed our decision. When you end up at the wrong station or your train gets delayed/cancelled altogether, you’ll be happy to simply get on the next one with your pass – no matter what time it is, or what stops you’ll have to make to get there– without paying a fee or even having to speak to an attendant.

To check out popular itineraries and/or research which pass makes the most sense for you, visit Eurail’s website here to get started.

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What Hostelling is Really Like: Part 2

Do you know how tired you have to be to check in to your hostel in a brand new and exciting city, and go right to sleep?

This is hostelling.

You provide your documents, collect your keys, grab your free map, and walk up the steps to your room (which is not guaranteed to be the same as your travel partner — even if you booked together). You open the door and glance around, only to find that the room is empty. But several of the beds are not perfectly made, some even have a few belongings strewn about, and you try to make your deductions about who these people are, where they are from, and what type of experience this hostel is going to be.

But you’ve made it, and you’re so tired, so you drop your backpack on the floor and sift through the top to find your lock, open your under-bed storage bin, and pack in everything you’ve been carrying as best as you can. You change out of your travel clothes with the bathroom door cracked, or sometimes right in the middle of the room, and you crawl into your clean, but not necessarily comfortable, bunk.

Staring at the ceiling with your heart racing and your feet throbbing, in this unfamiliar place, you’re so tired that you’re able to sleep as soon as you close your eyes. You’re able to sleep knowing that when you wake up again you most likely won’t be alone anymore. And you don’t know who will be joining you. Or what they are like, or where they are from, or what type of experience this hostel is going to be.

But this is hostelling, and thankfully so.

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We spent a lot of time in our room in Paris (considering we were in Paris) mainly because we felt sick and were a bit overwhelmed to venture out. The day we arrived, we were that tired that we fell asleep in an empty hostel and woke up to find strangers had entered and exited, also fallen asleep, had probably stared at our belongings or ourselves wondering who we were, where we were from, etc.

But we were extremely fortunate that our roommates not only helped to get us out of our rut but also to believe in joie de vivre.

Rafael was our first friend in Paris. He was outgoing and in love with the City of Light. His experience in Paris was far better than ours, but he did not let it only affect him. He was a lawyer back home in Brazil and must have been a good one at that. His enthusiasm and love for the art and culture in Paris persuaded us to keep giving it a chance. He described his experience visiting the Mona Lisa and made me feel the way he did standing in front of her. To be honest, he was the sole reason we went to the Louvre at all (we were going to skip it for the sake of our budget, but I’m so glad we didn’t). Rafael was warm and comforting. He was like a family-friend to us, in a very unfamiliar and unfriendly place.

“Can we to take a picture?”

I hesitated. This was the most we heard from our Malaysian friend, Yong, who up until this point didn’t have me convinced he spoke English.

We agreed to all take a photo together, Rafael included, though it seemed an unexpected request. It was our last night in Paris and we owed it to our roommates that we got any enjoyment out of our stay– especially considering the way it started. It was the least we could do.

But then as we all crawled back into our bunks, Yong went on to explain why he asked to take the photo. “My father is so worried. I wanted to prove to him that I’m meeting nice people and that I’m safe.”

This hit me at my core.

And not that I didn’t believe this already, but it was then that I understood a bit deeper just how much we are all the same. Because every day we texted our parents to let them know how we were doing, who we were meeting, and that we were safe.

And it was so comforting to feel and accept that two Americans, a Brazilian, and a Malaysian were all in Paris meeting nice people and feeling safe.

So what is hostelling really like?

It’s agreeing to take a photo with two “strangers.” It’s having these strangers convince you to keep going, to see the beauty in everything, and experience joie de vivre for yourself. It’s gaining a deeper understanding that no matter how scary some experiences can be or seem to be, they are worth taking. It’s keeping in touch even after only knowing each other for 3 days, 8 months ago. It’s knowing that there is far more greatness out in the unknown, than what our parents worry about. And it’s feeling comfortable enough to sleep in an empty room, knowing that when you wake it will no longer be empty, but filled with strangers just like you.

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Sherlock Holmes and the Benefits of Downtime

“…when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.”- Sherlock Holmes

When trying to pack as much into our trip as possible, I fully believed we’d only be sightseeing, eating, and sleeping for 2.5 months straight.

I was very, very wrong. Again.

I really didn’t think much before we left about having downtime. And why would I? The main focus was getting from amazing new city to even better new city, without issue and under budget. But once you get through the logistics and are actually living out your days, you will find that there is quite a bit of downtime that is unavoidable and some that is avoidable but completely worth taking advantage of.

The Unavoidable:

Finding cheaper flights, trains, hostels, etc, are almost always going to have a catch along with their price tag. Whether it’s an extremely early departure time, an inconvenient check-in process, a bit longer of a walk, or not offering a single snack, drink, or movie while aboard a 7-hour plane ride, each of these deals are far from perfect. And every time we purchased these non-refundable tickets, we said to ourselves that it was more important to get to our destination than it was how we got there. This was unequivocally true and I wouldn’t change a thing about that decision. However, these inconveniences can take a toll on your body (especially when combined with inevitable jet lag, stress, and the infectious germs of travel). And between train rides, plane rides, waiting in airports, waiting to check in to hostels, waiting in train stations, waiting, waiting, and more waiting: there is a lot of waiting and therefore downtime, that I did not plan for.

Sure, a lot of this time can be spent people-watching, or simply taking in your surroundings, but it is nice to have a book, Sudoku, or pair of headphones on hand for the not so pretty sights/sounds you are bound to encounter on your trip. Such as being in close proximity to a couple that is performing some very provocative leg rubbing and may or may not be [this] close to going all the way while you’re sharing an 8×8 train cabin. This is just one example from our experience; and trust me when I say that staring out the window while it was all going down wasn’t enough to combat the experience.

The Intentional:

You’re in “name your location here” once, why would you waste time in your room doing something you can do at home?? I wondered this myself the first few weeks to the point where it made me mad. But then I realized how much I looked forward to this downtime, how much our bodies needed it, and how much, mentally, it helped us relax and recharge.

I hate to state the obvious, but backpacking requires a lot of walking– I’m talking an average 6-10 miles per day if you’re being efficient. So you can expect for your feet, legs, back, you name it, to be sore. On top of this, your mind and your nerves really are hyperactive when in a foreign place. And though the process of traveling, being aware, and trying your best to speak the native language gets easier over time, it’s still exhausting. Thus, giving your body a break is not only a good thing, but absolutely necessary.

Lastly, it is unreasonable to go out every night while abroad; for both health and monetary concerns. For our trip, the nightlife was not why we chose to visit the cities we did (which I realize isn’t the same for everyone). In 9 out of 10 cities, we preferred to experience the food and sightseeing over the parties, and our budget reflected that. Therefore on many evenings, we finished out the day with dinner and showers; then found ourselves happily cooped up in our hostel bunk bed or common area, with one ear-bud in each of our ears watching Sherlock on Netflix.

The Benefits:

Sherlock became and was our comfort zone. This also gave us the opportunity to be together. [I write this as I laugh to myself. We were literally together the entire 2.5 months — but what I mean is a different kind of together.] Thinking of other trips I have been on in the past, it makes complete sense to me now. Because even when travelling with a group, you aren’t going to get to know your travel partners while you’re in the middle of Piccadilly Circus or snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef; it’s the bus rides, making and sharing meals, and the time spent unwinding before bed that you’ll really get to know someone and enjoy quality time together.

So the downtime became our quality time. And no matter what happened that day, whether it was cold and rainy, whether we got in an argument over food (happened more than I’d like to admit), or that night we ate Subway in Paris, we always came back to our hostel bunk or common area and were able to let it all go. Plugging in each of our earbuds to watch Sherlock was the equivalent to pulling into your driveway or plopping on your bed. The iPad, for us, was home—a place where our senses did not need to be on high alert, where we felt calm, relaxed, and safe.

Downtime may not have been something we planned for, but it ended up being something we were entirely grateful to have.

Blog, Uncategorized

C’est la vie

When I begin to tell people about our experience in Paris, I quickly end it by saying something along the lines of: “Oh, it’s Paris. It was beautiful.” But the truth is, we were only in the City of Light for 4 days and we were ready to leave by day 3.

Maybe we were overwhelmed, or maybe it was sheer exhaustion. But we had a hard time in Paris, more so than any other city we visited. In many ways, we did it all wrong. We tried to do it cheaply. We didn’t give ourselves enough time to prepare for what to do, eat, and how to accomplish it all. We only dipped our feet into the cuisine and the culture. We didn’t go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. We barely ate any cheese. We had NO champagne. We are ashamed.

We arrived in Paris in a miserable state and were on the verge of becoming ill (due mostly to lack of sleep thanks to “Joe” and “Fred” of London– What Hostelling is Really Like: Part 1). Our first item on our itinerary was not to see the Mona Lisa or get a croissant, baguette or anything of the sort. It was to sleep.

Therefore, as soon as we were able to check in to our hostel we passed out; only to awake 3-4 hours later, disoriented and starving. Still relatively miserable, we ventured to the closest restaurant available for dinner: Subway. Yes, you read that correctly. We ate Subway in Paris.

I said I was ashamed and I meant it.

Ordering our sandwiches that evening proved to be one of the most difficult and humiliating tasks we had yet encountered. Yup—this story gets worse.

After our “Bonjour’s” my brain completely ceased function. I wanted to say “How are you?” or “Could I please have…” and nothing came out. The teenage employee looked at me straight on. He did not flinch, patiently waiting for me to speak, or move, or prove that I wasn’t miraculously frozen in time. All the while, he either chose to let me struggle, or he was genuinely patient and understanding (your guess is as good as mine). Flustered and incapable of recollecting the phrases I thought I had memorized, I began to panic. I reluctantly pointed at the signs on the wall, still incapable of any real communication. Requesting a 6-inch, Sweet Onion Chicken Teriyaki on Honey Wheat, deemed itself a task I was simply unable to manage, so I pointed.

From this moment forward, Subway’s #1 employee helped me by (mimicking my level of communication and) pointing at the items in the serving case. This allowed me to then respond with one-word answers of “oui” or “non,” followed immediately by a gracious and overly repetitive “merci.”

I cringe still thinking about the whole ordeal.

In my defense, before we departed for this endeavor I was often told: “Don’t worry- everyone in Europe speaks English! You’ll be fine!” And I took this advice pretty literally. My sole preparation included downloading Duolingo (and practicing French a few times per week– when I thought of it, of course) and then Google translating some specifics once we rolled into Gare du Nord.

C’est la vie.

No matter how much I prepared, this would have probably still happened. Since growing up in the US and having English as a first language, it was truly the first time I visited a place where I did not have the ability to communicate. Which is extremely fortunate but also somewhat embarrassing to admit.

The silver lining to the story is that it only got easier from that sad and embarrassing experience in the Juarès neighborhood Subway, when I [figuratively] fell flat on my face over the language barrier. We made it through Paris despite our deteriorated condition and lack of communication skills, and managed to visit Sacré Cœur, wander Montmartre, hear the bells at Notre Dame, take in the awe that is Sainte-Chapelle, and see the Mona Lisa with our own eyes. We followed the aromas from street carts to indulge upon delicious croissants, quiche, and crepes. And we walked, and walked, and walked. Along the Seine, from the Arc de Triomphe, all the way down Champs-Élysées, and back again.

This was the only part of Paris that we did right. Even without being able to speak the language, Paris is incredibly easy to navigate, and also quite walkable (which is saying a lot considering it’s the second largest city in Europe). And though French can be intimidating, as long as you try your best, most of the vendors and people you’d interact with are willing to help– even if it’s humiliating for you. When in doubt, smile, show gratitude, and leave a little tip. Or as Ryan did, always make your girlfriend be the first one to initiate the conversation.